중국동북식당/Dong Bei Ren Restaurant/東北人

인터넷 검색을 하다가 우연히 중국의 동북지역 음식인 동북채東北菜에 관한 들을 읽게 되었습니다. 저는 1990년 백두산 등산을 간 길에 이곳 지방의 음식을 많이 먹을 기회가 있었습니다. 또한 20001 ~ 2003년 홍콩에서 2년여를 살 때, 매주 일요일 중국의 심천으로 동북 길림 출신의 조선족 부부에게 영어를 가르쳐 주고, 대신 중국어를 배우러 다녔습니다. 이때 심천에 있는 매우 특이하고 유명한 Dong Bei Ren Restaurant/東北人菜館에 즐겨 다녔습니다. 이집은 인테리어며, 종업원들의 의상, 메뉴 등등으로 꽤 소문이 났습니다. 물론 음식도 특이하고 맛있습니다. 2007년 3월 말/4월 초 아들 부부가 살고 있는 중국 산동성의 칭따오/청도靑島에 갔을 때에도 아들 부부가 저를 같은 이름의 레스토랑에 데리고 갔습니다. 무척 맛있는 음식을 싼 값에 팔아 손님들로 가득하였습니다. 특히 우리나라 교포인 조선족이 많이 사는 지역의 음식이라 그런지 한국음식의 영향도 좀 있는 듯 하고 맛도 우리 입에 맞았습니다. 심천과 청도에서 먹던 음식을 생각하며 이 글을 올립니다. 보다 자세한 내용은 이 레스토랑의 홈페이지 : http://www.dongbeiren.com.cn 를 참고바랍니다.




이 레스토랑의 종업원들이 입은 독특한 유니폼과 실내장식을 보면 해방 직후 우리나라 일반 가정에서 요를 만들 때 요바닥에 쓰던 광목 또는 옥양목에 프린트와 진다홍의 꽃무늬가 생각납니다. 매우 특이한 실내장식과 유니폼은 옛날 어려웠던 시절의 생활을 생각나게 합니다.
Book Master @ Peace of Mind 김 종헌 올림
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Dong Bei Restaurant

After reading Robyn's write-up on Dong Bei, we were all eager to try the Northern China food so a trip was made to the restaurant last weekend. We were not dissapointed as the food was fantastic. On the names of each dish, I hope I got them right as because I can't read Mandarin, I got my mother to translate the receipt. I messed up some pictures too so Shiewie was very kind to let me have her set of pictures (Thanks Shiewie!) so I will be able to present all the dishes we had.

First off, was this dish of fish slices with red chillies (Yee Heong Yoke Siew in Chinese). There is a different description by Robyn but I thought they tasted more like fish shreds rather than meat so I am still in the dark on what it really is. Whatever it is, it is excellent and was the first dish that arrived on our table which we all tucked in.



I love this salad, with the crunchy coriander, spring onion, green pepper and chillies salad. It has a pretty strange name as it is called Loh Foo Choy (which means Tiger's vegetables) in the receipt I have. Don't see any tigers lurking in that dish but who cares as the vegetables were excellent.



This is cucumber slices tossed in a sweet and sour sauce laced with chillies. Crunchy and flavoursome dish that was served cold.

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출처: http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eatingasia/2005/10/dongbei_delight.html

Dongbei Delights

Dongbei_soy_and_lajiao
Belching (discreetly) our way down Changkat Thambi Dollah towards Jalan Pudu after a satisfyingly fiery lunch at Sze Chwan Village Restaurant, we happened upon the nondescript, completely bereft -of-activity Restoran Dong Bei. The place was so sorry looking we would probably have passed right by without a glance, had I not spied a piece of orange posterboard taped haphazardly up front. And there, right in front of us, were the magic characters we'd been searching for weeks earlier, before we gave up and dove into fish porridge up the street at Ah Koong Eating House: dao shao mian (knife cut noodles)! And not just dao shao mian, but liang mian (cold noodles) and mala mian (noodles with chili and Sichuan peppercorns) and shui jiao (boiled dumplings)!
Right then and there -- after debating the matter briefly and then finally admitting to ourselves that there was no way we could shove a second lunch down our throats, no matter how much we wanted to -- Dave and I vowed to return one day to sad little Dong Bei for lunch. And so we did, less than 24 hours later. And have returned again. And are eagerly anticipate our next visit.
Dongbei is generally understood to refer to the northeastern Chinese provinces of Heilongjiang, Jilin, and Liaoning (sometimes Shandong province is thrown into the mix as well); the region is bordered by Russia, Korea, Mongolia, and (obviously) to the south, China. The population of Dongbei is rather homogeneous. It wasn't much settled before the 1700s, when Han Chinese arrived from the south; from the late 19th century until the end of WWII the region was occupied first by Russia, and then by Japan (which named it "Manchuoko"). Descendents of both nationalities still live in Dongbei today, whiled refugees trickle over the region's border with North Korea.
For Chinese from Dongbei -- in contrast to those from other parts of the country -- regional identity takes priority over provincial. That identity includes recognition of a cuisine which transcends provincial boundaries, and is influenced by the nations which border the region. Dongbei food makes frequent use of vinegar (Korean influence?) and features raw vegetables. Pickles are not uncommon, especially cabbage (Korea again ... and Russia?). Lamb is ubiquitous (Mongolia, perhaps) and chilies are used liberally. Wasabi, mixed with vinegar and sesame oil, is used in Shandong (the "sometimes" Dongbei province) to dress salads. Wheat, rather than rice, is the mainstay starch, so noodles, dumplings, and breads are a big part of the Dongbei diet.
Restoran Dong Bei has received our only repeat visit in the 2+ months we've lived in KL -- not necessarily because it is objectively "better" than any of the other spots I've yammered on about on this blog. Because it is different. Dongbei flavors make a radical and pleasant change of pace, now and again, from seafood curry mee or Ipoh chicken rice.
In two visits we've managed to scarf a number of dishes, all expertly prepared by the female head of the Heilongjiang household that owns the place. But before you go, know this about Dong Bei: it will probably be empty. I don't know why, and I don't know how Dongbei has survived the 5 years that it has with such dismal lunch traffic. Maybe it does all its business at dinnertime. At any rate, one mustn't be put off by a lack of customers.
On our initial foray we went snack-heavy, figuring -- as we had at Sze Chwan Village -- that the best way to guage the place's sincerity was via its simpler foods: dao shao mian, shui jiao (a mixture of meat dumplings and veggie dumplings), liang mian, Dongbei dala pi (lit. Dongbei style big pulled skins -- in actuality, translucent noodles made of mung bean starch), and a coriander salad.
Dongbei_cai_jiaozi
Dumplings were, in a word, excellent. Skins a bit thinner than those at Sze Chwan village, but not too much so. Expertly pleated, boiled to perfection (not mush), and stuffed with lots of garlicky greens (veggie variety, left below) and juicy ground pork mixed with wee nubs of spritely Chinese celery (meat variety, right).
Dongbei_cai_and_rou_jiao
On each table a proper, if not Sichuan-fragrant, la jiao you (chili oil/paste) and strong black vinegar are there for the mixing.
We ordered our knife cut noodles "dry".
Dongbei_dao_shao_mian_served
This, I believe, was a mistake. Not that the noodles weren't tasty; thick and wheaty, topped with a blob of chili bean paste and a good pile of shredded cucumber, these were everything I'd hope for in a daoshao mian, especially when mixed with a bit of vinegar.
Dongbei_daoshao_mian_mixed
But dao shao mian belong in a soup (and in fact that's the only way I'd had them, until our visit to Dongbei). They just do. These are fat, hearty, hefty noodles that need to be floating around with greens and porky pieces in a rich broth. They beg to be eaten hot, not at room temperature. And they will be, by golly, as soon as we can get back to Dong Bei.
Dongbei's liangmian were a complete surprise. Here, before us, was a tasty bit of Korea in a bowl.
Dongbei_liangmian
Round, ultra-chewy potato starch noodles, cucumber shreds, thin slices of pressed beef, a generous helping of kimchee, a dab of red chili paste, all sprinkled with sesame seeds -- something like naeng myun (Korean cold noodles), with ice-cold rice vinegar substituting for broth. Can't say I've ever had vinegar "soup" before, and I recognize that it doesn't sound appealing. But this crunchy, chewy, beefy, spicy noodle in vinegar soup is just about the perfect aswer to KL's wet heat.
Another surprise of the meal was this simple salad of cilantro and Chinese celery leaves, red and green pepper strips, and scallion matchsticks, dressed with only salt and a whisper of sesame oil.
Dongbei_cilantro_salad
I don't think I've ever eaten a better salad, even in northern California. Leaves perky and crunchy, not a wilted one in the bunch; and just the barest smidge of sesame oil left on the plate when we finished. A delightful palate cleanser.
The chef delivered our Dongbei dala pi with a flourish; undressed noodles draped over shreds of cucumber and large chunks of raw garlic, with sauce on the side.
Dongbei_bean_noodle_undressed
Once she had poured over the mixture of sesame paste, la jiao, and vinegar, and mixed the lot up, we discovered the dala pi included chewy matchsticks of stir-fried pork as well.
Dongbei_bean_noodle_dressed
This dish is a winner in every possible way. Texturally speaking you've got slippery, crunchy, and chewy, and though the sour of the vinegar dominates, fire from the la jiao and sweet from the sesame paste and the pork don't hide in the background. Not to mention the whallop of raw garlic. These mung bean noodles (but don't describe them as "noodles" in front of Dongbei's owner -- she'll get quite irate) are one of my favorite new foods.
After this first meal we were eager to get back to Dongbei to try a few proper dishes. On visit number two we couldn't resist another plate of shui jiao (all veggie, this time), and then followed that up with the intriguingly named jiachang liangcai ("home-style" cold vegetables). Expecting something along the line of a pickle, we soon found ourselves oohing and ahhing over this tempting mound of shredded cabbage, carrots, and cucumber; bean sprouts; and coriander leaves, all entwined with the potato starch noodles that had figured largely in our liangmian.
Dongbei_cold_shredded_salad
Yet another variation on the salad theme, as delightful and refreshing as the dala pi and the coriander salad. Except for the sprouts, which were lightly blanched, all vegetables were raw; the whole was dressed with black vinegar, a hint of la jiao, and a slick of sesame oil.
Yuxiang rousi ("fish-flavor" pork shreds) was the first hot dish to arrive. If I had not even tasted this dish I would still nod approval after having a gander at this photo. Why? The slick of red oil just visible in the plate. Not goo or some kind of sauce -- just an exqusisite naturally occuring amalgamation of cooking oil and pork fat and vegetable juices and the essence of those big can't-miss-'em pieces of dried chili.
Dongbei_yuxiang_rousi
This dish, to me, says "China"; it's the way I remember food there being way back when, when oil was expensive and valued and not to be wasted. Oil is a great carrier of flavors -- in excess inappropriate to, say, the finest and lightest Cantonese dishes, but wholly correct when the flavors in a dish are big and bold and assertive. As they were in this dish, with its hit of vinegar and its extreme chili heat. The pork was tender and moist, and the unevenly cut carrots retained plenty of crunch (and flavor). Dried chilies had caught enough of the "breath of the wok" to have picked up a distinct -- and delicious -- charred taste. I couldnt' resist eating them on their own, or paired only with the dish's thick slices of garlic. As for that glistening pool of spicy grease, I was tempted to ask for a spoon so as to facilitate unimpeded delivery to my mouth. A spectacular version of a common Chinese dish that, unfortunately, is served in many horrific variations around the world.
Xiangla xiaopai ("fragrant" and spicy small spareribs) was equally delightful.
Dongbei_xiangla_xiaopai
The "fragrance" of the dish was courtesy of Sichuan peppercorns -- but just a few, just enough to perfume the meat and nowhere near enough to numb the mouth. Ribs had been cut through the bone and deep-fried, then tossed with big garlic slices, crunchy coriander stems (a "clean" foil to the rich pork), and more dried chilies. This dish had no sauce to speak of, and it wasn't missed at all.
Finally, the most basic dish that can be requested of a restaurant: stir-fried greens. Readers of this blog will know that I take my greens seriously, and yet I must admit that I have yet to really and truly master this simplest of dishes (the shame!). My stir-fried greens always end up too cooked, or too raw; too watery, or so dry that they stick to the wok. Perhaps I should take lessons at the knee of the woman in charge of Dong Bei's kitchen, because she has really got the method down pat.
Dongbei_qingchao_youcai
Observe: plenty of garlic, leaves well-cooked while stems -- devoid of tell-tale limpness -- still exhibit a bit of life, and a pool of neither clear nor thick and goopy juices. A fine plate of qingchao youcai (fried mustard) if ever there was one.
I would imagine that -- if you've made it to the end of this long post -- it is apparent that we hold Restoran Dong Bei in very high esteem. We will be back (there are so many dishes yet to try, and we haven't even cracked to the lamb section of the menu yet). If you're a fan of northeastern Chinese cuisine, watch this space. Better yet, go eat at this place.
Dongbei Restoran, Jalan Changkat Thambi Dollah just a block up from Jalan Pudu. Tel 03-2148-7694. There is a very brief and incomplete picture menu; the complete menu is in Chinese. House specials are posted on a sign just inside the entrance, and the daughter, if she is waitressing, speaks a bit of English.
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<Peace of Mind>는 이형숙+김종헌 부부가 평생을 모아온 약 2만 점의 소장품으로 서재와 서예 전문 화랑식으로 인테리어를 꾸민 본격적인 Bakery & Book Gallery Cafe 입니다. <Peace of Mind>에서는 제과제빵 및 전통조리와 떡 전문가인 이형숙 교수가 빵과 음식을 직접 개발하여 서비스합니다. 매일 주방에서 구운 빵과 정성을 다하여 조리한 양식 및 한식, 피자와 샌드위치, 와인을 즐길 수 있는 문화카페입니다. <Peace of Mind>에서는 또한 부부가 쓰고 출판한 책들에 저자서명을 직접 받아 사실 수 있고, 조리 강좌에 참가하여 전통 반가음식과 떡 등을 배울 수 있습니다. <Peace of Mind>는 푸근하고 아늑한 집과 같은 분위기와 Home Cooking/홈쿠킹 스타일의 Family Restaurant/패밀리 레스토랑을 지향합니다.




보다 자세한 <Cafe 소개글> 바로가기: http://blog.empas.com/peaceofmind/list.html?c=1672329

[출처] 중국동북식당/Dong Bei Ren Restaurant/東北人


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by 노즈애란 | 2008/12/01 15:38 | 해외맛집 | 트랙백(2) | 덧글(0)

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